TS: This is a function of the way this book was conceived, as a derivative work compiling just the best of the previous guide. But, perhaps they found no new 5 star perfumes? Or, are they disenchanted and avoid sniffing new releases or new houses? (I’m only going on hearsay, so I may need to be corrected.) Tulip: If one takes a 3 year old ‘best of’ list of wines and updates the same list three years later, wouldn’t wine lovers feel cheated? … I think their concept of the top 100 is great I guess I wish they had done it 3 yrs ago and updated it with possible new additions for this edition. 5 that we retested is absolutely not the No. Of course, Chanel is also fortunate in not falling under the umbrella of a large publicly-owned corporation like LVMH, which I suspect gives their decisions a different emphasis. Neither Polge nor Sheldrake nor Demachy (who came to Dior from Chanel) could do a proper Diorissimo with the palette allowed today. These are essential to the soul of those perfumes. The core accords of Edmond Roudnitska’s fragrances rely heavily on restricted materials: citrus, oakmoss, jasmine (Eau Sauvage, Diorella) and hydroxycitronellal (Diorissimo).
I’d like to know if there is something about those fragrances in particular that makes them harder to update than, say, the fragrances in Chanel’s back catalog.
Just figures that they had all the iconic Edmond Roudnitska fragrances. Robin: Angie, I have a side question that relates to yours - in their review of Diorella (2011 update) they say “No one can blame Dior’s head perfumer, Francois Demachy, for allergen regulations that have made citrus, jasmine, and oakmoss tricky to use’, but it seems to me that you’re spot on, Dior has done the worst job of any house. (Of course, Cravache and Visa were perfect examples of how not to.) (See below.) I do think that Piguet’s reconstructions of Fracas, Baghari and Futur were perfect examples of how one can do legacy perfumery with integrity. Respectful-this may not be a fair question. Sorry!Īngela: My question is, in your opinion which perfume house has had the most heinous reformulations? (My money is on Dior.) Which house has had the most respectful reformulations? We’re both burned out on the subject at the moment. Karin: Hey Luca and Tania – we miss you!!!! Would love to see an update of The Guide. Last week, we gave readers the chance to ask Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez questions about perfume and their new book, The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics.
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